What is it that makes us think we are tourism experts simple because we travel? This last trip I stayed in nine different hotels, used one tour service, and was very quick to submit my expert review of each. I know I want a clean, functioning bathroom, and that most guests will not tolerate mold or large spiders in their rooms. I felt I could confidently give each of these small hotels a little advice that might help their business: Provide soap and toilet paper, these items make an instant good impression...or rather, the absence of these cause an instant bad impression.
Tourism in Sri Lanka is booming. The country has a lot to offer travelers, and despite the low prices, it threatens to make a huge difference to daily life as many locals give up traditional careers in favor of jobs in tourism. However, they must learn to cater to a huge variety of visitors from many different countries, including their own. Many of the tourist attractions are also religious sites and there is a clear dilemma as to how to benefit from the foreign visitors without corrupting these sites. We found different prices, entrances and food menus for locals and foreigners. And as in other emerging tourist destinations, foreigners are being brought in to run hotels and restaurants. This ensures that we will get the food and service we are used to when we travel: juice and toast for breakfast instead of curry and rice.
But is that what we want when we travel, exactly what we would have at home? Why is the second class train ticket in the hill country so popular with tourists despite its lack of class? Do we secretly feel like we need a little adventure, to experience something new? Our last stop on the lovely beach of Mirissa helped me find some answers.
This was definitely the most touristy of all our stops and we were fortunate to have booked a charming place right on the beach. We could hear the waves crashing from our comfortable beds and breakfast was served outside on the shady veranda. One relaxing afternoon, as we were lounging in the shady gardens, the friendly hotel worker called me over. He wanted me to see a large (easily 10 feet) snake making its way across the garden. I have never been fond of snakes and the creature scared me half out of my wits. The man laughed and shooed it towards the beach. I quickly imagined this snake hiding in some corner ready to attack me next time I took a shower. It was then that I realized that the snake was heading towards the crowded beach, and the nearest bar called The Zephyr. I had to follow. I called Ben over to watch what would happen when a 10 foot snake entered a crowded bar. The result was as expected. Customers scattered, screamed and climbed on tables.
The excitement continued as the waiters picked up the snake by the tail and swung it around. It was tossed about several times, causing sheer panic as it landed among the drinkers at the bar. Although the whole scene was very entertaining, I couldn't accept that it was good for business. Who wants to relax on a beach with a live snake slithering between the lounge chairs? Jon's quick response, when I told him of the episode later, was "You kidding? That will be the highlight of their holiday!" He is right, it will certainly add to the memories of a trip that was a little out of the ordinary. And some enterprising local might capitalize on that and open a petting station where you can have your picture taken draped in a snake.
Tourists these days are funny that way: we want safety and comfort combined with adventure and the extraordinary. Sri Lanka allows us both. We can sit on a beautiful sandy beach sipping our cocktails while huge waves crash at our feet and threaten to wash our shoes out to sea. We can be taken out in comfort to watch blue whales just off the coast, and drive past the stilt fishermen, who no longer catch fish, their main target today is tourists. There are close encounters with elephants and arduous climbs up mountains. And many times all the locals are getting out of our visit is what they can manage to sell us along the way.
I say: Buy a hat! The sun hat will remind you that you are in a hot tropical country with amazing beaches; the woolly hats remind you that you can climb mountains for stupendous views; and finally the safari hat will remind you of the animals. I did buy one hat along the way, but I am still not sure who did the best out of the deal, my family or Sri Lanka... I'm guessing we did.
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