Making the Most of Your Self-Guided Tour

We had already toured the castle, and we were on our way to tour the famous Guinness Storehouse in Dublin. The place is vast, and very popular. Starting in the basement, we were told to make our way up to the 7th floor bar, stopping for a free tasting experience on floor two. I felt like I was entering a ride at a theme park. The lighting was subdued, with flashing screens and lots of interactive displays to draw our attention to every aspect of the history of Guinness. The 'tasting experience' was similar to a scene in Willy Wonka's Chocolate factory, with lab coats and clouds of scented vapor. The Galaxy Bar, on the top floor, was where we hoped to stop and savor our complementary drink.  But there was

no where to sit and enjoy the view of Dublin.  So we ended up in what was originally the worker's dining hall. I felt like Jack Dawson on the Titanic, being forced to find room with the working classes below decks. Possibly, a more real experience than the modern glass bar up top.
With time to fit in one more visit in Dublin, I wanted to see Christchurch Cathedral.  I could not convince anyone else to go with me; the men were heading to the Jameson Distillery, and the women out shopping.  In fact, the cathedral was quite empty of visitors.  Only two of us were interested in the guided tour, and they only do tours for parties of 5 or more. So we were given a leaflet and told to wander round.
This is the first cathedral where I have been told to look up. Here the floors capture your attention with their beautiful tiles.  I did follow the advice of my pamphlet and look for the leaning wall on the west side; and the tomb of Strongbow, before heading down to the crypt.
It was down in the roughly finished crypt that I was delighted to find the most colorful parts of the city's history.

Firstly, I understood that the cathedral was the center of commerce and sales of tobacco and alcohol were conducted in the crypt. Citizens only made deals and sealed contracts over the tomb of Earl Strongbow. The crypt displays the stocks used for those who couldn't pay their debts. The building was heavily used and not kept up.  This resulted in the roof caving in and destroying the original buildings.
Just as Guinness poured money into the renovation of St Patrick's, so it is said that the distilleries of Dublin reconstructed the cathedral on a grand scale.
The filming of the TV series "The Tudors" was also set here.  By now I was no longer surprised to find that this slightly racy story had used the cathedral as its backdrop.

By far the most interesting exhibit was of a mummified cat and rat (quite a huge rat by today's standards). These were found inside the cathedral's organ pipes around 1860 and they add to the vision of underground life in the crypt.
The visitor's gift shop was closed, and many of the lights were out of order. Some workmen seemed to be trying to assess the situation.  Christchurch cathedral is apparently still having difficulty making ends meet, or paying its own way. They don't have the money and flashy exhibits that Guinness has, but they also don't have their crowds. I appreciated the quiet and uninterrupted opportunity to poke around. I didn't make it up to the belfry, but found the crypt much more interesting.
As I left the building, having a plan to catch, I stopped to take in the outer view with the Homeless Jesus in front.  There is no plaque, no explanation, no name plate. The identity is known by the nail marks in the bare feet.  And as I take the time to reflect on what the cloaked figure might mean, I realize that this cathedral has seen it all.  This is not just the religious center of Dublin, but in it's distress, deprivation, rebuilding and healing, it is the center of life of Dublin. 

Pubs of Dublin

I have been told that the only way to visit Dublin is by visiting its pubs. But I didn't expect to find this to be true. We had hardly landed, checked into our hotel on St Stephen's Green, when my brother texted me to meet him at the Hairy Lemon.  This named seemed a wee bit unusual compared to British pub names, and I was surprised to find that this was in fact the name of the pub and it was quite a popular venue. Named after a Dublin character whose head resembled a lemon, the place is a maze of rooms and seating areas.  The website said it could hold up to 150, but I really don't know where they would all fit in.  My brother had found us a cozy alcove with a table for four. We ordered oysters and drinks.

Well, when in Dublin...  I felt like I had checked something off my list of  'must's'.  Wandering on, we came across the busy Temple Bar Area down by the river.  The streets were already full of people and it was barely three o'clock.  Jon went to have a closer look and was pushed through the door by a lively crowd. We found restaurant seating upstairs and decided to order another meal.  The place was packed with people waiting for tables at the bar. The food came almost immediately: hot Irish stew and Guinness pie, and more drinks. We didn't feel rushed, but comfortable in the bustling, noisy pub.
The next day we wanted to try to get in on some of the live music venues.  Most of the pubs advertised music for at least part of the day, so we headed out early. The Temple Bar Pub seemed the most popular. A musical duo was playing in a back room. It was standing room only. I managed to film the banjo player on my phone above the crowd. We sampled the local Guinness and waited for someone to leave.  It became apparent that the crowd was just getting bigger and there would not be any available seating. We sang along and bumped elbows with others enjoying the Irish music.

On a roll, we tried another pub called The Quay, just a block away and with its own leprechaun greeter. The musicians had set up right by the door with guitar and fiddle. After another round of drinks, and nowhere to sit, we decided to stand just feet from the music. Suddenly a man next to us approached the "stage", put down his drink and started to sing a lovely Irish ballad. I was not the only one with my phone out. After his song he thanked the musicians and left.  Could he be moving on to the next pub?
We visited another pub later that evening for a meal. This one was an old Victorian called Doheny and Nesbitt.  It took as a while to find our party in a room behind the bar with wooden paneling and its own door. We had shepherds pie and more oysters.  We helped bus our tables by pushing the dishes through a hatch into the bar.  I nearly got lost looking for the toilets which were down in the basement.  I walked through another room where a group were watching football on TV, and noticed a man sitting at the bar with a pint and a book of poems.

Each pub was different, unique in its layout and decor. Some were louder than others, more full of people, but all full of life. It could have been because the weather was cold and gray, or because it was near New Years, but I got the feeling that Dublin pubs are well frequented all year round. They provide good food, drink, music, a place to watch the game or use the facilities, warmth and a quiet nook to read a book. I left Ireland with a fondness and a calendar of at least 12 Dublin pubs.