Sunday, January 13, 2019

Making the Most of Your Self-Guided Tour

We had already toured the castle, and we were on our way to tour the famous Guinness Storehouse in Dublin. The place is vast, and very popular. Starting in the basement, we were told to make our way up to the 7th floor bar, stopping for a free tasting experience on floor two. I felt like I was entering a ride at a theme park. The lighting was subdued, with flashing screens and lots of interactive displays to draw our attention to every aspect of the history of Guinness. The 'tasting experience' was similar to a scene in Willy Wonka's Chocolate factory, with lab coats and clouds of scented vapor. The Galaxy Bar, on the top floor, was where we hoped to stop and savor our complementary drink.  But there was
no where to sit and enjoy the view of Dublin.  So we ended up in what was originally the worker's dining hall. I felt like Jack Dawson on the Titanic, being forced to find room with the working classes below decks. Possibly, a more real experience than the modern glass bar up top.
With time to fit in one more visit in Dublin, I wanted to see Christchurch Cathedral.  I could not convince anyone else to go with me; the men were heading to the Jameson Distillery, and the women out shopping.  In fact, the cathedral was quite empty of visitors.  Only two of us were interested in the guided tour, and they only do tours for parties of 5 or more. So we were given a leaflet and told to wander round.
This is the first cathedral where I have been told to look up. Here the floors capture your attention with their beautiful tiles.  I did follow the advice of my pamphlet and look for the leaning wall on the west side; and the tomb of Strongbow, before heading down to the crypt.
It was down in the roughly finished crypt that I was delighted to find the most colorful parts of the city's history.
Firstly, I understood that the cathedral was the center of commerce and sales of tobacco and alcohol were conducted in the crypt. Citizens only made deals and sealed contracts over the tomb of Earl Strongbow. The crypt displays the stocks used for those who couldn't pay their debts. The building was heavily used and not kept up.  This resulted in the roof caving in and destroying the original buildings.
Just as Guinness poured money into the renovation of St Patrick's, so it is said that the distilleries of Dublin reconstructed the cathedral on a grand scale.
The filming of the TV series "The Tudors" was also set here.  By now I was no longer surprised to find that this slightly racy story had used the cathedral as its backdrop.
By far the most interesting exhibit was of a mummified cat and rat (quite a huge rat by today's standards). These were found inside the cathedral's organ pipes around 1860 and they add to the vision of underground life in the crypt.
The visitor's gift shop was closed, and many of the lights were out of order. Some workmen seemed to be trying to assess the situation.  Christchurch cathedral is apparently still having difficulty making ends meet, or paying its own way. They don't have the money and flashy exhibits that Guinness has, but they also don't have their crowds. I appreciated the quiet and uninterrupted opportunity to poke around. I didn't make it up to the belfry, but found the crypt much more interesting.
As I left the building, having a plan to catch, I stopped to take in the outer view with the Homeless Jesus in front.  There is no plaque, no explanation, no name plate. The identity is known by the nail marks in the bare feet.  And as I take the time to reflect on what the cloaked figure might mean, I realize that this cathedral has seen it all.  This is not just the religious center of Dublin, but in it's distress, deprivation, rebuilding and healing, it is the center of life of Dublin. 

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