Sunday, May 24, 2026

The Pirate of the Air

 

I am leaving this island that has been my home on and off for 12 years. There is plenty to fret about as I navigate the last tasks of packing up and shipping out. I feel I need to get out and lift my mood so I take a walk.  Surprisingly it isn't raining... the recent storms have moved on.  I spot a frigate bird high above, soaring effortlessly on the ocean breezes. Suddenly it dives, attacking a much smaller Fairy Tern. Known as the 'pirate of the air'  these birds terrorize smaller birds into dropping or regurgitating their catch, which is then taken in midair. I am not going to use a cheap analogy of what is stealing my joy, but I am realizing that this curious scene did make me forget the past challenges and helped me concentrate on that which has brought me joy here on Kwajalein.

This island can be a challenging place to live: it's remote, lonely and without the comforts of home. If I am not careful, I will leave this place like Tom Hank's character on Cast Away, being rescued and asking for ice. So I went out to enjoy the sunshine, keeping to the ocean side to get the benefit of the breezes. I bumped into another couple who I haven't seen for a while and we reminisced of the old days when our families were with us and brought us joy.  I took time to comb the beaches for flotsam and sea life. I found the usual coconuts and flip flops, but also some blue lobster legs. A half full shampoo bottle covered in clams made me wonder how items end up washed up on this tiny speck of an island in the middle of the Pacific. 

The tide was coming in as I rounded the north end of the island, washing sea water over the reef into the lagoon. I laid my phone aside and took a dip in the warm water which has brought me so much joy snorkeling over the years: rays, sharks, clown fish and brilliant giant clams never ceased to take my breath away.  My next stop was a perfectly placed beach chair where I could sit on white sand with my feet in the waves. I couldn't resist another swim before continuing on to Emon beach to find a water fountain. I passed the A-frames and tables where we have met to enjoy a sunset and a picnic or party with friends and family. I am always surprised at how few people are at the beach, and the life guard has little to do. The water is safe swimming despite the abundance of hermit crabs and Huma-Humas. 

Now I start making my way home along the road by the lagoon towards the dock. This has great sunset viewing spots, more importantly, it has a lush variety of trees. I have found this a great place to identify and paint palms, acacia, huge shade trees and many more that were probably left behind when the residents of the trailers were turned out. I visit my favorite, Java Almond, with its delicate flowers and huge clusters of seed pods. I take photos that I can use as reference for botanicals. The dive flag is flying over the steps, and I climb up to view all the blues of the lagoon. There are snorkelers and a turtle surfaces showing me its beautiful mottled shell. This reminds me that we used to come down here most evenings to watch the sunset... before life got so busy. 

I also remember sitting on the bench waiting for the green flash that never happened; and going snorkeling in hopes of seeing something new and exciting, but finding a lot of nothing; and eating at the DFac but finding the food inedible and that they are out of most everything; and going to the snack bar where our family ate every Sunday right after church, only to find it no longer opens on Sundays; and going to work and finding the AC broken or the internet down; finishing work with no official sendoff or appreciation.  I could go on, but that would negate all the joy that I have experienced on this island, over the years.  So I just take another walk... and remember with gratitude the good times.


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