Saturday, July 1, 2017

Angels' Share

Of all the distilleries in Scotland, we ended up at a brand new facility on a rainy afternoon and took a tour just to pass the time. Whisky is most certainly Scotch, but I found myself wondering why. Why did the brewing company choose this isolated spot we only found by accident on a winding one-track lane leading to a remote outcrop of rock on the eastern coast of the Scottish Highlands? They could have chosen Glasgow, southern England or even California. I was soon to find out how this unique spot is perfect for whisky making.
We entered a large dirt-floor warehouse filled with wooden barrels at the beginning of the tour, and I was shocked to see mold growing up the walls and across the roofing. Our guide immediately addressed this by explaining "angels' share" as the portion of spirits that is lost to evaporation each year, given, you might say, to the angels. There is a fungus that feeds on this and is a good indication that the environment is cool and humid enough for the proper storage of the aging whisky. Hotter and drier climates promote too much evaporation, or loss of alcohol. The Scottish Highlands, with their year round cool and rainy climate, are perfect for maturing distilled spirits in oak barrels over a period of 10 years.
Whisky starts off as beer, brewed from barley which is grown locally. The grain goes through a drying process, heated by the burning of peat. Peat produces a different flavor than wood, and at one time was the only fuel available in the Highlands.
The barley is mixed with water to create a wash. More water is needed for the fermentation and distilling process. And I am witness to the abundance of water in the Highlands. Scotland is the wateriest place I've been. There will never be a water shortage here.
I was starting to understand why the owners of this distillery made the effort to bring in vats, limited in size only by the size of the country roads they would need to be transported on, to this beautifully remote spot. The conditions were perfect, both in climate and natural resources. The plant has added some new features to the old process by recycling its water and barley waste. They differ from the American bourbon by allowing the use of recycled sherry casks that produce a unique flavor.
We couldn't taste the finished product at the end of our tour, because the plant had not been in operation long enough to produce aged whisky.  I was content to quiz our guide for as much information as possible. He was proud to explain the features that distinguish Scottish whisky from whiskey made elsewhere. He explained the process that creates blended malts and why single malts are so valuable.
As well as adding "angels' share" to my vocabulary, I learned the origin on the derogatory phrase, "Shut your bung hole." The bung hole is the hole in the barrels through which it is filled and then corked with sacking and a wooden plug.
It took me years before I was ready to vacation in Scotland. I did not look forward to days of rain and difficult driving conditions. I chose instead sunshine and warm water. Now I wonder why it took me so long. I probably had to age and mature, just like a good Scotch, in order to appreciate the beauty and ruggedness of the hills.
I love the idea of sharing the goodness with angels. After all, all this natural beauty is a gift from above, and acknowledging that is a way of paying tribute. Let's give praise where praise is due and realize that it is Scotland that makes Scotch great.

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