Saturday, March 26, 2016

Explorers and Missions of Brazil's Wild West: Part 2

As a child I traveled from Porto Velho through the miles of Brazilian forest to the Bolivian border. I don't remember much of the journey except for the driver making one stop to pick up a paca he had found dead on the road.  The large pig-like rodent made the rest of the journey lying at our feet. At that time I did not recognize that I was on the same route as the "Railroad of Death", which an American company had attempted to build in the early 1900's. So many workers died of malaria that it was abandoned as a trade route for the rubber producers connecting with the larger rivers of the Amazon.
Albert Maxwell was not discouraged by this failure, and was very interested in meeting a Brazilian military officer named Marechal Rondon. In 1908 he had been commissioned to explore the interior of Mato Grosso, map the rivers and make contact with the tribes living there.  Rondon set out with compass and sextant and fearlessly entered uncharted territory.  He was never aggressive towards the indigenous people he encountered, even after being shot by one of their arrows.  His success in gaining their trust led to his obtaining their help and cooperation in the installation of telegraph lines through the territory.
Rondon was president Theodore Roosevelt's guide on a visit to Brazil in 1913. Together they were the first explorers of the River of Doubt, which was renamed Rio Roosevelt. They made it down the river without incident from the 'savage' tribes, but were constantly at war with disease and infection. Their remarkable journey took them hundreds of miles in unsuitable canoes and suggested that while the jungle was hostile, the indian tribes were not.
Rondon made it possible for Albert to visit the same potentially deadly areas of the forest without being attacked and killed by the tribes who were constantly at war with one another and the rubber tappers. Albert followed Rondon's directions and advice when setting out on his own exploratory trip into  northern Mato Grosso in 1922.  He was looking for a place to base his life's work and mission.

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