The Cost of Living in Paradise

 

I live on the Kwajalein atoll, which is part of the Marshall Islands.  When I was first offered a position here, I had to find it on the map. It is characteristic of many islands in the Pacific with white sand beaches, palm trees, and coral reefs beneath the crystal clear waters.  It is also very remote, with little to no tourism.  I have to do without the luxury of a high-end resort, but usually have the beach all to myself. 

So what is it like living here day in and day out? Well, I am never out of sight of the water, I snorkel with manta rays, and follow dolphins in a boat. Every day the sky is blue, and the palm tree sway in the breeze. 

The beauty of this place is unparalleled.  And naturally it isn't available to everyone. The Marshallese allows the US Army to lease some islands, and only those with military clearance can live here.  So I must be in an enviable and privileged position, or am I failing to mention the costs that come with living in paradise?  

The first cost is the need to punch in everyday to a job that is probably not within ones ideal profession. Many of the jobs here are necessary, but not professional.

The job descriptions are vague. You might end up working in the postoffice or HR. But we put in the hours and enjoy our days off. The pay isn't bad, and we save so much.  However, no one is really padding their resume, or getting necessary experience for the next step up the ladder. If you stay here too long, you find it hard to be competitive in the job market back home. 

Another cost is the remoteness of the island, in the middle of the Pacific ocean with only one flight off a week. It would be near impossible to make an emergency flight to visit my mother in London. Even with 3 weeks off for Christmas holiday, I am finding it difficult to find a flight that will take me back to

Minnesota and family. Being here, I miss weddings, graduations and family get togethers. For those with close family in the US, the cost of being here is high.

The final cost I am aware of this time out, is that of money itself. Part of the lure for those who were finding it hard to make ends meet, is that of a good salary, all expenses paid, and great benefits. The position becomes all about the money you can make, save, and perhaps send home. That makes us less likely to spend out for boat rentals, golf memberships and other activities. If I spend all my hard earned cash on enjoying paradise, it becomes an expensive holiday. There is still plenty I can do for free, like snorkel the reef, meet up with friends at the beach, and play tennis.  But if at some point, I find I am paying too much to live in paradise, I will have to leave.  

On the same vein, if I find I am giving up too much being away from family, then it is time to go home. Or if my lack of upward mobility and freedom within my job becomes too stifling.... it may be time to retire.

Long Live Nostalgia

 

The death of the Queen has prompted the awakening of all that she stood for. For some that is painful memories of imperialism, but for me it is the memory of family and good old fashioned fun. My parents are of the same era as Queen Elizabeth II, and although they spent most of their lives abroad, they never stopped identifying as British.  So, as we now look back on the Queen's life, it is like looking back at my own childhood. 

I remember the Christmases with party hats and games, then pausing to watch the Queen's speech on TV. 

I remember the summers in England and Wales. They were usually walking holidays, where we followed footpaths and took little notice of private lands. My father seemed to relish the solitude, away from the busy tourist sites, where we could explore the wildlife and feel free. We always packed a picnic lunch. There seems to be nothing more British than carrying your lunch with you and sitting in the grass to eat pate and sandwich spread.  And of course, there was the thermos of hot tea. 

I remember summer holidays in England where we ate outside everyday.  We picked our own strawberries for dessert and sat under the apple trees.  Then a game of cricket or football would get underway. These were a family affair, with every one joining in. It was simple fun. 

I remember getting up early to watch Charles and Diana's royal wedding on TV.  Then listening to Princess Anne speak at my college graduation.  The Queen's family was so much a part of our lives.  Although members of that family have threatened to muddy the waters, the Queen has remained a constant and clear example of what it means to live a full life without regrets. 

The Queen was from the same time as my grandmother, who never left the house without a coat and hat. As fashion changed, the Queen continued to dress the same.  I must say, I was swept up in the buzz that surrounded Diana, with her modern fashions and media presence. But the Queen outlasted them all. I was struck by the simple fact that no one person was at both her coronation and her memorial service. 

I find her dedication to her position inspiring. Few of us stay any length of time in one place anymore. We move on looking for a better fit, more money, or more recognition. We adapt to the changes that come with the times. We are quick to change our wardrobes as well as our families. We cannot be like the Queen who committed her life to a way of life that she believed to be dignified and humane. 

So with the death of our beloved Queen goes the end of an era. My childhood is now part of history. We are no longer a nation that reaches out across the world to bring about change, while quietly preserving our own home as a memorial for the good old days. Now the world has come to us, it lives, breathes and brings about change within our borders... inside our homes. 

The Queen did her best, but her passing is just another reminder that the world is no longer the same as that of our childhoods. 

COVID Comes to the Marshalls

 

In March 2020, the Republic of the Marshall Islands closed its borders to the outside world. The only exception was for US Army personnel and contractors flying into the garrison on Kwajalein atoll. Military flights there were once a week, with the expectation that travelers would complete a long quarantine prior to travel in Honolulu, and an even longer one on island.  All cruise ships and sailing vessels were suspended until further notice. As a result, the RMI stayed COVID free for over two years. 

This island nation, part of Micronesia, is spread out over 29 atolls and consists of over 1000 small islands. The most populated of these is Majuro, the capital, followed by Ebeye, which serves as a workforce for the US Army Garrison on Kwajalein. 

Part of the attraction of accepting a teaching job on the island was that there was no COVID: no restrictions, no mask wearing, only the initial quarantine period. However, we arrived days before the first cases did. Reportedly, it is still unknown how COVID came to the RMI. United Airlines had recommenced flights to repatriate the Marshallese, and it is possible it came in that way. Our school reported the first two cases on Kwajalein military base among the students who come over daily from the neighboring island of Ebeye. Jon and I had been over to Ebeye days before, on a visit, without wearing mask, and were aware that we could have come into contact with Covid that way.

Like us, the Marshallese are largely vaccinated, and this is making a difference to the number of hospitalizations. The island of Majuro is currently leading the surge of Covid cases, but with few deaths. I am hearing of families, students and teachers testing positive, taking their 5 day sick leave, then returning to the community.  I had 5 students out sick with Covid last week, and had to cover for two teachers who were also positive. I am not sure what the weeks ahead will bring.

The community is starting to impose restrictions. Masks must be worn indoors. Some (although there doesn't seem too much rhyme or reason for which) events and sites are being closed. The dining facility is still open, but bars are closed. Events such as the Labor Day beach bash have been cancelled, but the soccer league and swim meets are still on. It is unlikely that schools will be closed, due to parent opposition. The hospital is advising everyone to do their own testing at home. We can no longer travel to other islands for our own personal recreation, and the dive shop has closed. 

Most of what we do on Kwajalein is outdoors and does not include large groups of people. Personally, I can continue to go to the beach, eat out and order my goodies online. Even when our local bar closed, we were able to hang out ocean side with our own drinks. And coming from Africa, where we found little airborne transmission of the virus, I am expecting the whole think to blow over soon.

However, the Marshall Islands have topped the charts of Covid cases as of yesterday. They went from zero cases to over 1,000 daily cases overnight. Although these are mainly on Majuro, there is no saying whether the same will happen on Ebeye. Obesity and diabetes due to poor diet could cause deaths, and there is not the hospital care to deal with a full epidemic. Although the island I live on is sparsely populated, Ebeye has a population of 40,000 per sq km. If they pull through this, it will be due to their high vaccination rate. Meanwhile we will just have to deal with fewer people turning up to work, facilities open less hours, and other restrictions the rest of the world lived through for 2 years. It is hard to say whether the RMI did the right thing in closing its borders for so long. I do not fault a government for trying to protect its population. I wish them all the best, and may the vaccinations hold the inhabitants of the Marshalls in good stead. 

Finding Nemo

 

It is easy to become ungrounded, especially when living on a speck in the middle of the Pacific Ocean. Here one is so remote from the rest of the world; people come and go; policies change and new rules come into effect; one forgets why we came to be stranded out here in the Marshall Islands. The activity that grounds me, when living here in the past, is snorkeling. It is free, just a bike ride away, and can be done anytime of the day. I usually go alone, when the sun is out, but have had great snorkels in the rain as well. I escape from the world into a beautiful underwater paradise, full of colorful fish, corals and exciting rare sightings. I never kept a record, and am sorry to say I didn't even take the time to learn the names of what I saw. I did have one focus... to find something new, or unusual each time. At first it was about reporting back to my sons, who would ask, "See anything good today?" But my curiosity kept me going back for more. There are all kinds of parrot fish, and varieties of trigger fish. Then I would discover octopus dens and clown fish in their anemones, and felt I needed to check up on them regularly like one would a pet. After leaving Kwajalein, for years I could close my eyes and travel again over the reef to the drop off, visiting well known coral heads, and seeing turtles and rays swim beneath me. This is more than my happy place, it is my sense of being grounded, returning me my sense of wonder.

So why did I feel a sense of panic as I swam away from the beach this morning? My fins are in my packout, leaving me slow in the water with just a mask and snorkel.  My last snorkel, off another island in the atoll, brought me up close and personal with sharks. Instead of lying low, one grey reef shark swam right below me, checking me out. As I hurried to get back to the boat, another two white tips came along side me, probably just curious, but certainly giving me a sense of being hunted. The sharks circled the boat for sometime, watching us as we watched them. But then I had fins, and wasn't alone.  This morning I almost turned back to shore because I wasn't willing to take any more risks.

But I didn't... I kept to the shallows and marveled at the colors and shapes of the corals. Three years ago, raging storms caused coral bleaching and breakage. The reef is only now starting to show signs of making a comeback.  I especially miss all the sea anemones waving their tentacles to hide the clown fish inside. The storms must have killed these off as well.  A friendly turtle let me come near and I started to get my confidence back. There was nothing here that would hurt me! I was back to investigating the reef and patiently floating to see what might swim by.  And I did find my clown fish, staying within the safety of a good size anemone! As I watched, the babies darted out, and back in again. One day they will have the courage to go out on their own and find another anemone... might even have to go far.

Welcome Back?...Maybe Later

Jon and I are returning to teach on Kwajalein, where we lived with our boys from 2006 to 2014.  And someone asked me "What does it feel like to be back?" And I responded: "Difficult to say, since it is so strange going into quarantine right away without yet having contact with people or the island. It's not like carrying on when we left off...."

We haven't yet had a chance to get outside and see, but I am imagining not much has changed in 8 years. This is a tiny island in the world's largest atoll. The whole island is a military base, home to mainly civilian contractors and radars. This is like no other base, due to its size and remoteness. There are no cars and most items have to be ordered and come through the mail.  It is a slower lifestyle, for sure, with less distractions. But I fear our experience here this time will be different, because we are different. 

Many will say you can never go back... But for Jon and I it didn't seem like we were turning back. We had both applied for new jobs, mine was one I have been working towards for the last three years, and it was definitely a better package allowing for bigger savings. Someone called it our 'last hurrah' before retirement. Our sons are excited for us, and are hoping to visit before long, remembering all the unique activities they took part in growing up on the island. 

I understand nothing is as good as we remember it! Already I have lost the dream job I was coming here for; the new contractor decided only to hire us on separate contracts, which means we don't get housing; COVID regulations are forcing us to quarantine 10 days in a moldy old house with no comforts; and we found out our things won't be shipped out to us any time soon. 

So I take a deep breath and remember the first week on island in 2006.  Our family of five were met at the airport by couple of teachers. They loaded us up into a golf cart and showed us around the island. Our three bedroom house had been prepared for us with food in the refrigerator and a welcome kit of kitchen and household items. It turned out we didn't need them, as our shipment had arrived before us. We had lunch at the snack bar, and dinner of freshly caught fish on the beach. The boys were off making friends from day one. The same teachers took us out by boat for a day trip to Bigej, a neighboring uninhabited island. We snorkeled in the crystal clear waters and collected shells along the beach. Dolphins accompanied us back as far as the marina, where we found nurse sharks and turtles waiting.  What a welcome! 

I believe I can work my way back to the place I was in during our first stay, but it will take time. Waiting to get out of quarantine.... waiting for our shipment... waiting to find out how things work around here now.. all will take patience.  Already, I received legal delivery of a bottle of wine and muffins from a friend, and a not so legal gift of a corkscrew.  And there will come a time when I have a better pillow, and am not dependent on others to buy me coffee. I will be able to make my own welcome, and maybe survive to welcome others in their turn.

Photos from our first tour

 

Goodbyes

 

It is that time again. The end of a year, packing up, moving on and.... saying goodbye. But what irks me the most is the staged farewell ceremonies where those who are leaving are put up for public assessment. I thought I had dodged that this year by proactively asking to be left out of the speeches and formal staff goodbyes.  I am not under any delusion that I am loved here, or will be missed.  In Abuja only 18 short months, most of it during COVID restrictions, and traveling home when possible... I certainly haven't settled here or had time to contribute much to my school community.  I barely know the names of the staff.  So I was hoping to slip off quietly.

But our last ES staff meeting was in my library, and it was announced that those staff who were leaving would be honored.  There was a slide show and gifts given out but I wasn't included. To my utmost embarrassment,  I thought I heard my name being called and walked on up to the front, only to be met with an awkward silence from our Principal. I cringe when I recall my asking, "Do I get anything?" to which she replied, "no." All I could do was sit back down and take the shame.  I hadn't been forgotten, I had been deliberately left out.  The message was clear and loud, "YOU ARE NOT PART OF US, WE ONLY HONOR OUR OWN."

This school is used to expat staff coming and going again. We come for the experience, for the money, then move on. The local staff don't try too hard to be friendly... until you have been in Nigeria for 4 or 5 years. They expect you to move on, and be replaced. So I really shouldn't be surprised. And it is my fault for moving on so often. If I stayed in one school, I would never go through these kind of assessments. 

One the other side, I think I was bothered so much because I have been attended staff goodbye parties before, and the moving farewells stayed with me and made me who I am today.

I am talking of farewells that feel like the beginning of a friendship. When the act of saying goodbye cements the idea of how valuable the people or place has been to you, and suggests that the memories will last forever and we will stay in touch. I still stay in touch with people I worked with 20 or 30 years ago! They were the best part of my experience in that job, and the reason I remember it fondly. There have been quite a few tearful speeches made, by me and by those I am leaving.  I still cherish the departing gifts given me by students and teachers. They were an important part of my life, and me of theirs. 

So what went wrong this time?

I made less of an effort, missing my family and wishing I was home. The food disagreed with me and I was sick with COVID for two long months without any one to care.  The job of a librarian is rarely appreciated these days. More than one person on staff wanted my job and were glad to see me go. Small minded administrators don't understand how to share space, staff and collaborate. Half the expat staff leave each year because they want a better quality of life. The other half are just trying to feed their families.  I rarely got outside the school compound and experienced nothing of Nigeria. 

But then there were the students...

...appreciative of anything I introduced to the library, from puzzles,  to chess sets, to robots. 

...whose names I knew and who new my name, greeted me in the hall and loved to chat.

.... who loved my stories and came back again and again for more book recommendations.

... who thanked me for my help and apologized for bad behavior in the library.

....who helped me plant and tend a beautiful garden with flowers and butterflies and compost.

.... who loved the library so much they arranged playdates there after school, and begged their parents to let them stay longer. 

As educators, this is why we teach... our students appreciate us. It doesn't matter if no one else does! 

Back by Popular Demand

 

So, those last minute weekend trips are back. Most places no longer require COVID testing or quarantine. For my quick trip to London, I simply booked a flight on my phone the day before, and went to the airport with my passport. It is true that flight prices are through the roof, but if you are flexible with dates, then you can find something affordable, even last minute.

Why London? I was anxious to visit my elderly mother and spend some time with family. I also had some tests to take for my Minnesota teaching license, (its a long story!) and London happens to have a testing location. 

I headed down to Holborn after peak hours to make my testing appointment. Most changes in London are for the better, and I am now able to pay for everything with a foreign credit card and there is no need for cash. 

I did get on the wrong train at first, but a perfectly intelligible intercom voice told me when to get off and change for the Metropolitan tube line. I found the test site easily after consulting Google Maps, and was allowed to take the test early.  I found myself finished by noon and bought a coffee across the road. Free wifi enabled me to plan my next move. There was a time when you couldn't travel without a phone and data plan, but I have found free wifi at coffee shops and airports very useful. 

I was delighted to find myself only one block away from the British Museum, which is open, and free! Since it was beginning to rain, I took advantage of this easy access to one of the best museums in the world,... well, certainly one of the largest.  The place is huge and sprawling with over 60 galleries covering historical culture from all over the globe. Most people go to the Egyptian sculptures first, as did I, and view the Rosetta Stone.

I enjoyed  the Greek and Roman stone sculptures, many without their heads.  In the architecture exhibit there were parts of famous buildings like the Parthenon. I started to wonder about the ethics of removing these priceless pieces from their original homes. Some plaques suggested that they had been gifts to wealthy benefactors long ago.  I am sure there are some countries now wondering why they parted with part of their heritage and culture.  Or maybe they are happy to have their history safeguarded and put on display for millions. It is hard to say. 

My favorite gallery was dedicated to African culture. I may be biased because of my time in Nigeria, as I have some background knowledge of the places and stories. But even without this connection, the exhibit is worth seeing with its huge masquerades and the 'Tree of Life' made from the discarded weapons and arms from recent conflicts.

The number of exhibits could keep you busy all day. I did't have that luxury so simply wandered around and stopped whenever something caught my eye. These highlights included the Saxon burial sites, medieval monastic tiles, and travel journals from early explorers. The building itself is interesting with its great open court yard and staircase displays.  I also found the information posted about each piece especially interesting, learning the what and why of the people who created and enjoyed these works of art. 

There is a predominance of artifacts used in death rituals, and the museum embraces this with their "Living and Dying" gallery. We remember people by the way they lived, and how they died.

There are reminders of COVID everywhere, but they are all but ignored: signs about wearing a mask, about booking tickets online, and keeping your distance. These signs have become part of the museum's record of a past age. We can now look back and remember all we had to do to prevent the spread of the virus.

Traveling back to Abuja, I was reminded again of how much easier it is to travel now. This partly due to the relaxed measures, but also due to the way rules are no longer enforced. Barely anyone wore a mask on the flight, despite being told they must wear one at all times.  And most of the passengers had failed to fill out the required government travel documentation despite this being a mandatory requirement for entry to Nigeria for the last two years.

We are all ready to be done with COVID. We want to go back to our normal activities without being told we can't. And I am glad of the opportunity to spend time with family in London... and make use of the facilities of the British Museum.  

Hike to Magic Mountain

 We started early to beat the heat, leaving our compound and heading towards a rocky outcrop named after the amusement park at its base. We are on the outskirts of Abuja, but then most of the sprawling city seems to be outskirts.  Any unused plot or strip of land is fair game to those who want to plant a crop, graze cattle or run a small business. So it is not uncommon to meet cattle in the street, and corn growing beside the highway. 

The rocky hill stands above the national football stadium, that was built 20 years ago, but not kept in functioning condition. It is overgrown, open to squatters and has become a dumping ground. The barbed-wire fence has long since been torn down, so we were able to walk across the grounds. It is still early so there were only a few dogs around. 

From the top of the hill we could see for quite a way through the misty morning sunshine. The stadium is strategically placed between several highways and a railway line. This doesn't stop squatters from using the land. We passed some farmers planting corn by
hand in the rocky side of the hill.  More fields spread out beneath us on the back side of the hill.   Because the rainy season has only just started, nothing is planted yet. Instead the long horned scrawny cattle are gathered there before being herded around the city during the day. Two boys with machetes take a break from clearing the land to run over and say hello. 

These boys come from a village of traditional huts, built on the land between the stadium and the railway tracks. The residents are building fires, collecting firewood, and the children are chasing the goats around. This is the barest form of subsistence farming. I cannot imagine what they find to eat. I suppose they can find jobs of one kind another in the city limits. 

On the walk home we found the area coming to life. There are kayakers on the lake, and women are sweeping the streets with their hand held bundles of sticks; babies on hips. We had noticed a large pile of yams on the way in. Now an army of women were starting fires and setting up huge cooking pots the size of witches caldrons.  This seemed to be a very basic catering service, preparing food that would be sold on the streets later in the day. We bought some mangos and bananas before heading back up the road to our compound. For us it is a holiday, a day off work. For everyone else around us, it is work as usual, because here, the business of living doesn't allow for breaks. 

S African Safari 4. Back to Basics

 

The 4 Day Kruger Safari offers one day in the park, two days of travel to and from the park, and one extra day to explore the private lands that, because of their proximity to the national park, get you close to a large number of African animals. Unfortunately for us, this extra day turned out to be the hottest of the year.  

We sat in a crowded open jeep and sweated. Very few animals were taking the time to show themselves in the heat, but our driver was determined to get us our money's worth and put in a valiant effort to find a black rhino. He explained that we had a better chance of seeing a 'hooked lipped' (or black) than a 'square lipped' (or white) rhino in these parts even though they are much rarer due to their endangered status.

Square lipped are grazers and usually seen in open pasture. I now realize that we had very little chance of seeing any rhino, whatever the color. Our guide claimed he had found tracks and scattered dung, a sign of them marking their territory. We also looked at twigs that he claimed were chewed by a hooked lipped rhino. Really we were just going for a ride along rutted tracks, dry stream beds and over fallen logs.  More than once I imagined the jeep tipping over and killing us all.  We chased after several giraffes, but even the water holes were empty because of the heat. 

We disturbed a large bull elephant who trumpeted loudly and charged. The jeep engine chose that moment to stall, and our driver had to jump out and shoo the elephant away by clapping his hands and yelling "Get!"  However, like the giraffes, the elephant didn't want to bother with us in the heat of the day. Fortunately, we got the motor going again and were able to head off to our next accommodation, Marc's Treehouse Camp. 

This was to be our camping experience on safari.  That camp had seen better days and many of the tents were underwater from previous flooding. We had treehouses, which were really tents on stilts. We decided favorably towards our treehouse due to the fact that there was a giraffe standing outside when we arrived. Without sides, and only a grass roof, plenty of wildlife had found itself inside with us for the night.

It stormed during the night, and several other huts leaked, and one of our party reported rodents running along the bed headboard.  We had frogs and lots of spiders in the shower. But it was exciting, and a unique experience. While our German friends complained and longed for a decent hotel room, we went out exploring. The second night Jon heard some snorting in the undergrowth and wanted to see what was out there. A flashlight lit up a large African buffalo who was probably on its way down to the river below our hut. Buffalos are considered extremely dangerous, so we didn't bother it, and went back to bed under our mosquito net. 

The buffalo was still lurking around our dining area the next morning.  It was joined by a group of nyala antelope and vervet monkeys in the trees above the pool. The reason for the proximity of these animals is not that they are pets, fenced in or attracted by our food. Recently there has been a movement to take down all fences between the national park and surrounding private land to allow animals free range. Everything has become their domain, and only the busy roads are off limits for their grazing and hunting.

As exciting as it is to be so up close and personal with nature, it is also unnerving to discover that the animal noise I hear not too far away is the roaring of lions. The truth is... most animals are thriving despite their contact with humans.  Most take little notice of us, or politely avoid us. It is rare that a large predator like a lion will take a human.  Our meat is too salty for them. But they must eat, and provide for their family. We have come into their space, and the larger animals will sometimes be threatened by this and attempt to scare us off. But with the right education, and an expert guide, there is no danger... unless you are being driven around the bush by a crazy jeep driver looking for rhinos.

S African Safari 3. Bush Walk to Olifants River

 

Day two of our safari started early with a bush walk. After arriving late in the Kruger National Park area the day before, yet still catching up with the lions before retiring to bed, I was full of expectation. What will we see today?  The lodge served us a quick cup of tea before we set out and reminded us to watch out for the monkeys.  In our bleary state, we did not notice a cheeky vervet come in through the window before it had stolen a half eaten banana and rusks.   Our party loaded into the open jeep just as the sun was coming up. On the drive toward Olifants River, where we would do our walk, we drove past our first impalas and zebras.  

Both of these are plentiful in the area, and like to graze in large groups for added protection from the lions.  They seem to know when to look out for lions, however, and when they are safe to roam.

Still, we started the walk with a safety talk and two loaded rifles. Hippos are the real danger, as they roam away from their watery homes at night, and do not like being disturbed on their way back.  They literally bite a person in half. 

Fortunately we were able concentrate on some smaller beasts without worrying about the hungry hippos. Our guides pointed out spiders, termite mounds, plants and birds, throwing in some local folklore to spice each up. 

There was a giraffe poop pellet spitting contest, that I politely declined. I did taste the magic guari bush leaves that produce tannin when picked. Elephant dung has a surprising list of medicinal properties I didn't know about and so couldn't miss taking a puff of some smoking dung. 

There was an abundance of hornbills, and a couple of vultures. No animals came near us on the walk, and I suppose they know to keep away. We did see baboons in the distance across the river, but they also gave us a wide berth.  The animals' presence was only evident in the large number of hoof and paw prints in the sandy soil.  The heat was intensifying, and we were happy to find a shady river bank.

We stopped a while to rest, snack and watch the hippos: one mother, with a baby, and other males swimming and clambering up the bank. All the time, the oxpeckers never left their pursuit of parasites on the hippos' heads and back. As the hippo submerged, the birds rose into the air, only to land again on the head when it appeared above water. 

The water was incredibly inviting, and we headed back to the lodge for breakfast and a swim. 

It would be nice to have some down time, to write down and digest what we had seen and learned so far.  At this point one of the vehicles refused to start and they had to send for a mechanic.  The breakfast service was also delayed because of a power cut.

The lodge, ideally situated as it was, was also in need of some repairs. The park was closed a year ago, and tourism stopped completely. Many people lost their livelihoods. No was around to look out for the poachers either, and the rhino population has been decimated. 

This was something we noticed, no one pestered us for money, and no one was overcharging us. This is a simple example of where tourism can help a community economically, which in turn can help the ecology of the area.  I was told that there were no Americans with us on the safari, because Americans like luxury, insinuating that our 'budget' tour was beneath them. I would encourage everyone to come out and rough it a bit, while helping to bring this place, and others like it, back to life. 

S African Safari 2. Lions

 

Let us just come out and say it... on safari, everyone wants to see a lion.  Many operators advertise that you are guaranteed to see the Big 5:  a hunting term describing those that pose the most dangerous risk. Of the five, only two are predators, lions and leopards, and of these lions are much easier to encounter in the wild. They are territorial,  often form large prides, and will sleep most of the day.  Guides will share with each other the pride's whereabout, making it easy to  drive right up to a lounging group. Only at dusk, will most lions begin to hunt, which is thrilling to watch.

Our safari organizers understood the importance of being able to deliver on a lion sighting, and planned a game drive the first evening. As the sun set, we headed towards the area where another safari group had sighted a group of about 6 lions lying in the middle of the dirt track. The group of 3 males and 3 females didn't even seem to register our presence. In order to get closer, our guide backed up into the bush and came around behind the group just as they started to make a move. They crossed right in front of our vehicle and continued single file down the path. We followed slowly behind. The lions seemed more intent on what might be out in the bush, than the fact that a jeep full of people was only a few yards behind them.  Night fell and we used head lights and a spot light to continue our viewing. To our surprise, and fear, two more lions came up silently behind the vehicle, brushing up against the sides of the jeep and scaring us half to death. I felt as if I could have reached out and petted the passing animals without experiencing any harm. 

We left them to their night hunt and turned around to return to the lodge. Another lion came toward us, clearly visible in the jeep's headlights.  The male gave us a quick glance before calmly walking past in order to rejoin the pride, wasting no time at all on trying to confront or intimidate us. Such is the understanding between man and beast in these parts. I was told that they are totally at ease with the vehicles, whereas if we were to step out and venture among the lions, they would certainly attack in order to defend their territory and their family. 

All this happened on our very first day on safari. You might think that there was not much else to see, that everything else might pale in comparison to viewing lions on the move in the wild. We pondered this as we sat down to eat a meal prepared over an open fire in the bush. By the light of the fire we noticed eyes watching us. And some powerful flashlights picked out two hyenas who were interesting in our barbecue. Yes, there was certainly a lot more out there in the bush to see, and we were encouraged to get up at 5:30 am the next morning to walk out on foot into these animals' territory.