우도 Cow Island

 

More than one person recommended Udo Island for a visit during our school break. September weather here is beautiful: still hot and sunny with a fresh sea breeze. It isn't a far car drive to Seongsan and from there it is a 15 minute ferry ride. We set off with enthusiasm for a day exploring what literally translates as 'cow island'. Being small in size, the island doesn't allow tourists to drive rental cars there, and most people use the ferry port carpark and walk on. We planned to take our car over, but there was no clear sign allowing us to drive on. We drove around the carpark and then exited. Someone asked us for a ticket using the universal sign language of making a rectangular shape with their fingers. We managed to communicate that we had no ticket and were pointed towards a white building in the carpark we just left.

So we drove around and back in, parked the car and walked around looking for a ticket office. Inside we had to fill out 4 forms and prove that we owned our car. Then we were handed a brochure for 'The Mysterious Island' with a ferry timetable that was crossed out in red pen. 

With no scheduled departure time, we simply followed some other cars to a ferry and waited. Then I watched in horror as they began boarding cars by asking them to reverse onto the ferry. Now I am aware, and confused, by the Korean obsession with backing into parking spaces. It seems unnecessarily difficult and I am not very good at it. But to load a ferry full of vehicles in reverse just seems like you are asking for trouble. Fortunately Jon was driving and did his best. At one point the attendant put his arm inside our car, took hold of the steering wheel and guided us into a tight spot. 

As soon as we were out of port we went out on deck to get a good look at this mysterious island. It is supposed to look like a cow lying down in the water, but I just couldn't make it out. The brochure explained the mystery by pointing out the eight great sights hidden on this tiny island.  We never were able to locate the sights with confidence as I believe some are either underwater, or only accessible by private boat. We did enjoy the seagulls following the ferry and grabbing chips out of peoples hands or diving down to pick them out of the air. 

We had not yet had coffee, so we stopped at the first cafe we saw.  The parking spots outside were all taken by small pink covered scooters with bunny ears. These were everywhere, along side 4 seater pedal and electric bikes. Tourists had many options when it came to getting around.  I also noticed some waiting for the bus. I briefly looked for shells on the white beach and was surprised not to find any.  I later found that this beach is made up entirely of red algae casings which are quite rare, and protected. 

Udo Island is famous for its freshly homemade peanut ice cream, and encourages visitors to stop at the many beachside shops to sample it. However, we found most places crowded, with no parking.  We kept on driving round the island thinking we would find a less busy place, but wound up back at the ferry terminal. So we missed a chance to eat, but we never passed up a chance to get out of the car and walk along the rocky shore line and appreciate the views of Jeju's Hallasan mountain and all the oreums dotted about. 

I was able to unravel one mystery of the island after some research online. One coastal path took us around the back of a property with onion shaped domes and Greek statues on top of columns.  This turned out to be a theme park called Hundert Wasser Park.  Friedrich Stowasser, better known by his pseudonym Friedensreich Regentag Dunkelbunt Hundertwasser, was an Austrian visual artist, architect and activist. Hundertwasser stood out as an opponent of "a straight line", expressing this concept in the field of building design, which explains the unusual park buildings. This park doesn't have rides, but just art exhibitions. I'm not sure how many paying visitors it gets a year, but it is another option for those who don't want to climb up to the light house.  Next time I visit I will definitely leave the car behind, rent a bunny-eared scooter, stop for peanut ice cream and coffee often, and visit Hundertwasser Park. Who knew there was enough on this small Cow Island for more than one visit.

It is all about the photo!

 

This may not be news to you, but I have become bombarded by the amateur photographers. I cannot go to the beach without coming across newlyweds in the middle of a photo shoot. The camera or phone is set up with a tripod, there are costume changes and absolutely no concern for what anyone else thinks of them taking over a very public place. The rental cars drive up and unload fashionably dressed passengers to pose in a field of flowers strategically planted in front of a rocky mountain. When I wandered in, not at all prepared to be photographed, I was charged ₩2000 to use the flower field. That field bloomed and then was plowed over in less than 2 weeks... it was only there for tourists as part of their fall package to Jeju. 

A friend told me of another garden with pink muhly grass that provides a cotton candy backdrop for, yes, you guessed it, photographs. The garden also advertises other shows throughout the year: tangerines in October, camellias in winter, canola and plum trees in spring, then hydrangea in summer. That is a lot of opportunities to pose and whichever season of the year you visit Jeju in, there is a beautiful backdrop.  So the buses roll up and people wait in line for their turn to pose. An added bonus are the props, 'I ♡Jeju' signs and sweet framed arbors that direct you where to pose. These photo ops are too precious to waste on a simple selfie, and there are many that will offer to help you take your photo properly. 

Of course, the flowers are not the only possible backdrops on Jeju.  The island is full of beautiful coastal viewpoints, mountains and lava formations. Our recent road trip took us round the island where we stopped along the way to admire the beaches, crashing waves, volcanic oreums and craters. At each stop we were joined by other tourists wearing their best clothes and immediately posing for the camera. What surprised me was not that the picture was the purpose of their trip; we all fall into that trap knowing that photos with people get more likes; but that Jeju has totally owned the fact. Flowering plants are grown right in front of the mountain to enhance the shot.  Platforms are built to provide a safe place to pose over the crashing waves; steps and walkways lead out to the best view point; and spots are marked with a 📷 or with a X to stand on. They are making it easy for you to take that perfect shot. 

However, as I puffed and panted to climb up to a lighthouse I questioned my motivation. Was I doing this just to get the picture at the top? And so I had a few realizations:

• the view from the spot was exhilarating and could not be captured in a photo. Reaching the top, catching my breath and feeling the wind threaten to blow me off the cliff was exciting, but a shot of what lay beneath me would not hold any of the depth, dimension or emotion. 
• natural beauty does not make people naturally curious. Following the sign and the crowds led to some unique buildings erected that, at first sight, seemed to enhance the travel experience but turned out to be follies. One was a Gingerbread House that was once used in a K-drama film and now is abandoned; the other is a theme park inspired by the Austrian Hundertwasser. Most of the tourists walked by these oddities and focused on taking pictures of Seongsan mountain.
  
• we gain little from travel if our aim is to simply post online for likes. One woman sat with a book open, apparently reading, on a wall above a beautiful white beach. I watched as she filmed herself reading in that idyllic spot. Another group of bikers posed for a drone on the same beach. I do not doubt that their posts were eye catching and produced influential images. However, I do doubt that they were aware that they were on a rare beach made of red algae nodules. These carbonate structures make this a protected place and a national monument. 

I like taking pictures... I like the artistic element involved in capturing the beauty I encounter. I now know that some people like to take pictures more than I do. Most of my pictures are never printed out or preserved. Maybe that is the attraction of the photo booth, we have something tangible to record our time and experiences. I watched a young couple approach an outside photo 'booth' at the Wolgeongi beach in matching soccer jerseys. They then pulled out a bridal veil and bouquet to pose before the camera. When they were satisfied with the shot, they printed out the photos to take with them. Congratulations!

Galot & Gam Galore 옷

 

The newness of the thousands of tangerine trees on Jeju is starting to wear off. They fill the fields and gardens and they are literally everywhere. I found a few pomegranate trees in the landscaped borders of the public streets that were not exactly thriving; and then I found the persimmons! Their bright yellow stood out like plump tomatoes with crowns. I surreptitiously picked a branch to take home and paint. Each fruit stem is so short they appear to be stuck directly on the branch.  In Korean they are 'gam' and on Jeju they are associated with 'galot' which literally translates to 'persimmon dyed clothes'.  This Jeju tradition of using unripe persimmons to dye cloth was used for the work clothes of farmers, fishermen and divers. The starchy dye claims to make cloth more durable, water and UV resistant, as well as repelling insects. Fishermen found that if they dyed their lines with persimmon, they lasted longer and were less likely to break. 

Well, sounds perfect... where could I get some? I found a store nearby which advertised some modern products such as hats and scarves made of the dyed cloth. I knew I couldn't persuade Jon to go with me unless there was a scenic walk or trail nearby, so we headed for the Yongmeori Tuff coast.  The Geo trail turned out to be closed due to high waves, which a polite man in the visitor center explained was quite normal these days due to rising sea levels. He asked us to phone before coming next time. But since my primary objective was the clothing store, I wasn't too disappointed. 

We found all the usual keychains and tangerine themed gifts, but there was also a beautiful collection of modern clothes made out of naturally dyed fabrics. The persimmon dye shows a traditional orangey range of earth tones, but it might be mixed with indigo blue for a tie-dye effect. Seaweed created a taupe and there was a darker olive green that I believe to be onion. I had already set my sights on buying a sun hat. If the dye did as it claimed, it would be the perfect hat to protect me from sun, rain and mosquitos. The vendor warned me not to machine wash it, and I think this must mean the dye would wash out?  I hope that doesn't mean it can't be worn in the rain... or will my sweating create a persimmon dyed head?  I was willing to risk it. 

On our way out I noticed the vendor returning to her sewing project behind the counter. She was using scraps of the dyed cloth to make small flowers... rather than letting them go to waste. This is another Korean tradition, that of Jogakbo 조각보.   It is rooted in zero-waste and minimalist resourcefulness since long ago, when scraps of clothing were sewn together to make a patchwork wrapping cloth. It has now reached an art form, creating everything from slippers to wall art. 

I love the way beauty can be woven into natural materials and conservation.   옷 = clothes in Korean

Just Right for Exploring

It's the weekend and Jon suggests we drive and find a nice place to have coffee. We settle on a Starbucks that looks out on a white sandy beach to an island off coast.  A man enters and motions towards the chair next to us. We indicate that it is free and he settles down with a children bucket, the kind used to make sand castles.  He is totally absorbed in its contents and I can't help but be curious as to what he has caught, and why he has decided to bring it in for coffee. 

As we head out along the beach path, we notice most visitors choosing to explore the tide pools, rather than lie in the sand.  This is an active beach. Workers are taking down sun shades and pulling up stakes. The life guard is blowing his whistle, keeping everyone
safe.  The loud speaker and posted signs warn of strong wind and currents. This is the last day of the season and the summer holidays are drawing to a close.  But we are drawn to the water, watching the waves crash over the black rock and create clear pools on the white sand. The sky is brilliant blue one minute and then stormy the next. The wind blows the fine sand everywhere and also turns the giant wind turbines located just off shore. It is a major producer of energy on Jeju but also blows down trees and bends the bamboo nearly double.  Just as the black volcanic rock is used to build walls around the farms, so it used to farm the sea.  We can see some of Jeju's traditional stone tidal traps where fish are caught with bare hands. The shore line is quite shallow here, but today only a heron wades in the lagoon like waters.  Apart from the gigantic washed up jellyfish, dangers include reported sinkholes that act like sand traps and pull swimmer down.  I don't need a translation app to tell me that 수영 금지 means 'No Swimming'. But in my opinion this beach is worth a visit even if you are not swimming.

Jon and I have not been on Jeju long enough to have our favorite spots, there is still so much we haven't seen and we are still working our way up the west coast.  We try to keep to the blue line painted on the side of the road.  This denotes the Olle trails which are marked for hikers to see the island.  And whenever we see something spectacular or unusual, we stop. Sometimes there is no obvious parking, but usually we see other cars parked in the weedy verge.  Jeju is just the right size to have plenty of new places to explore without being too big to be overwhelming to the newcomer. 

In this case we passed a town we had been to before,
but this time we ignored the navigation app's directions to go home and came upon some new stores, a full service gas station to fill up our tank for the first time, and something calling itself an UNESCO Global Geopark.  Although there was no parking, and the visitor's center had long since been closed, we found some posted information as to the formation of Suweolbong peak. According to geologist a very old volcano sunk creating a ring of islands and a shallow lagoon. From the look out post on the top you can just see the ring made up of small islands and a wall of cliffs along the shore. According to legend a brother and sister climbed the cliffs to pick a medicinal herb that only grows there for their
sick mother.

Suwol slipped and fell to her death while her brother shed tears that formed the waterfalls.  I have only explored the southwest of the island, but I am finding this to be a common story of tragic death and shed tears around these parts. 

Fortunately it is both easy to buy or rent a car on Jeju, and difficult to get lost. The main mountain, Hallasan,  will always tower above in the clouds, and its slopes all end at the sea.  There are few straight highways, but you can always enjoy a ride with no fixed destination down country lanes flanked by black stone walls and farmers fields, or wind your way up the coast stopping to wonder... while braving the wind off the sea and sand.