The old nickname for Jeju is Samdado, which translates to an island (do) of three (sam) abundances (da). They were introduced to me as: the three w's you will find on Jeju are
wind, walls & women. The first I am yet to see. Since I arrived on the island, the weather has been hot, humid and stifling. We recently went for a sunset hike which should have been the cool of the day. Even at 6pm, the oppressive heat threatened the event. The awaiting van was like an oven and we were all drenched in sweat before arriving at the water's edge. And then we were met with not a breath of wind from the sea.
Our first stop was a fishing village of Gosan-ri, where some of the squid boats return with their catch. The squid were all hung out to dry along the road side, and some vendors were selling the dried squid on carts and in small kiosks. I had noticed the boats out on the ocean at night, with their bright lights attracting their catch. Now I had a chance to see them up close and observe the oversized and powerful lightbulbs strung up from bow to stern. Around sun set they all ventured out on the glassy sea and took up positions within sight of the shore. Nearby a pod of dolphins played, and seemed in no hurry to get anywhere. So where are these prevailing winds that the island experiences year round?
There is no beach near the fishing port and it was quite impossible to reach the water to cool off since the shore was made up of volcanic rocks. The whole island is one extinct volcano, and water's edge shows mounds and stacks of black hardened lava. This basalt rock is everywhere, carved into statues, used as paving stones, and piled up to make the dry-stone walls that border the fields. The soil is fertile but full of boulders. So the farmers clear their fields of rock and pile it up along the road side. Our ride travels down small roads between the black walls of rough hewn rock.
The traditional 3 abundances actually refer to 'stone or rock', rather than walls, which I realize doesn't start with a 'w', but includes all the other ways stone is used on the island. Several excavations have unearthed stone burial sites and homes. More famous are the dolhareubang or stone grandfathers. These squat stone men sit at the gate and guard the property. We were met at the airport by a pair dressed in swim wear and goggles, and I have started to spot others dotted around, often sporting something that applies to the business it stands guarding.
If I hadn't just finished reading Han Kang's "We Do Not Part" then I would have scratched my head over the abundance of women on the island. At one time the women far outnumbered the men due to the men leaving the island for fishing and war. During the war time, men were conscripted or imprisoned, depending on the time. During the 50's many young men took to hiding in the various caves of the island to evade being captured and slaughtered by the secret police. After the WW2, right wing groups were insistent that Jeju was harboring communists and helped wipe out a large part of the island's population. Many men joined the navy just to avoid becoming a part of this violence against their homeland.
Now the men are back, many still fishing or taking advantage of the government initiatives of small market gardening on the island. These small farms, covered in plastic film, can produce up to 3 harvests a year, by growing year round tropical fruits and vegetables. It is now August, but we see the fields being harvested and prepared for another planting. So far I have enjoyed the locally grown bananas, tangerines, cherries, tomatoes and cucumber.
My initial experience of the island has been dominated by three s's: sun, school & shopping. We live on a school campus that is part of Education City, alongside three other large international schools. The place is quiet because students and their families have not yet moved back for the start of the school year. I only venture out in the heat when I need to go shopping or eat. I look forward to seeing how thing change as the weather cools and our neighborhood comes alive.
