Visiting Jeju for the first time? Having the ability to drive ourselves, using the local navigation app, we looked online for places to go. Our first destination is a nature preserve on the south side of the island that advertises views of volcanic cliffs. It is named for 'jusangjeolli', the Korean term for columnar jointing. We did not take into consideration the weekend traffic or, as it turned out, the crowds of tourists. The parking lot was full, with lots of buses and vans unloading visitors. We stood in line to pay the small entrance fee, and browsed the shops selling tangerine juice and tangerine themed souvenirs. The walkways took us to viewing points where we had to wait our turn to pose and photograph the hexagonal shaped columns of black rock.
I wondered if there was anything else to see or do, but noticed the crowds heading towards the exit. Back outside we noticed a sign with what we assumed were prices for parking, but even Google translate didn't help us understand where and how to pay. I suggested we just drive off without paying, but Jon wanted more information. He looked around for someone to ask. Most of the other tourists appeared to be Korean, and so probably wouldn't speak English, but there were a couple of foreigners like us. When approached, they explained that they were here on a tour and couldn't help us with parking. Driving out we were stopped at the gate and fortunately we had some ₩won and were able to get by without breaking the law.
We continued into town for lunch, but again found ourselves fighting traffic and confusing road signs. Having been warned that traffic cameras will capture any infractions and ticket us, we were nervous to get caught speeding, running a STOP sign or illegal parking. One of the most confusing signs was the crossed out arrow painted on the road. So we drove around and left the car in a lot below the entrance to the World Cup Stadium. This is an impressive building that now houses a cinema, jogging track and water park. We are hoping to watch a soccer game there before the season ends in November.
Continuing our sightseeing, we stopped at the Tea Museum not far from where we live. As I expected, this was a tourist trap. The surrounding tea plantation was beautifully clipped and ready for visitors to pose, similar to how one might take selfies among the grapevines at a winery. The 'museum' as actually a large gift shop, cafe and restaurant. We tasted the peanut flavored green tea and macha before purchasing a few tangerine teabags. Another building sold beauty products and soap made from tea. This opened up into a delightful cafe where one can sit and sip tea overlooking the green tea fields. Everything screamed "social media post". The teapots and cups were made of glass so the light shone through the golden liquid inside. Dainty tea flavored biscuits and cakes produce an upscale treat that gives you a taste of the local citrus fruit.
Our 'high tea' at the tea plantation contrasted greatly with our lunch at the McDonalds in town. Although the fast food restaurant is not Korean food, it showed me more of authentic Korean culture than the tourist spots. Like almost all other restaurants here, there is no one to take your order. At fast food places you use the big screens to order and pay, where in sit down places there is a smaller screen at the table. I am able to practice my Korean alphabet sounds by reading the menu; 맥도날드 (pronounced maek-doo-nal-deu); I find they serve crab cake wraps and burgers with Korean pepper cream cheese. Every restaurant has at least one umbrella stand full of umbrellas by the door. McDonalds has a machine that wraps your wet umbrella in plastic so you can carry it inside without dripping. We took our food upstairs and discovered that a small boys was following us. He believed we had dropped a US dime, and wanted to make sure he returned it to us. His kind consideration was touching.
In my haste to get to know what Jeju wants foreigners to appreciate: the scenic coast, the tea and tangerine plantations, the traditional fishing industry and the beaches; I was overlooking what I need to appreciate a life here: learning the language, the customs and food. All of South Korea relies heavily on technology in service industries; there is no need to speak the language in order to make a purchase; just use the app. But there is a need to speak the language in order to connect with those who live here and can introduce us to so much more on this island.
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