It was a beautiful day to explore the southern coast of Jeju and Songaksan Mountain. The typhoon had passed us by and the sun was out. Having heard the the Olle trail was more of a walk and less of a hike, we set out at the hottest part of the day. From the parking lot you can see the promontory jutting out into the East China Sea. Songaksan is a very old volcano with a crater containing an inner peak caused by a later eruption. The trail, which is really a walkway with lots of stairs, follows the outer edge of the crater, above the cliffs of what looks like layers of sandstone.
There are caves carved into the cliffs and further up we came across what looked like bunkers or the openings to tunnels. Reading the sign we found that these were the work of the Imperial Japanese Army during WW2. The bigger caves housed military gear, weapons and suicide torpedo boats. The smaller tunnels which connected them form an underground hideout from the Allied forces. Of course, they now are no longer safe to enter.
I hear that the highest peak in the center of the crater is no longer open either, due to erosion, but we are happy to stay on the lower path. The day has turned out to be very hot and humid, and the trail more of a hike. Even the sea breeze doesn't help, and we wished we had brought more water. I stop to examine a cactus, (and catch my breath) and wonder at the light colored rock that makes the dramatic cliffs. If it is sandstone, how is it withstanding the buffeting waves? I start to worry if the path we are on is actually unsafe, liable to crumble and take us down with it. Being a volcanic island, Jeju is made up almost entirely of black basalt.
But Songaksan is actually an older volcano that erupted many times over a long period of time. The basaltic tuff, or ash, settled in layers that resemble sandstone, but is not as soft. Nice to know.
As we continued round the crater, we could look out on a couple of small flat islands that claim to be the most southern parts of Korea. Some tourists take boat rides out there, but there is not much to see, as legend has it a farmer burned down all the trees fearing an invasion of snakes. This made sense to me, after seeing endless signs warning of the creatures, and coming face to face with a four foot snake at the entrance to my residence.
We were thankful of the shade as the path continued through a forest of pine. A few horses were grazing nearby and I have seen several references to wild horses and the island of Jeju. Apparently the Mongol empire first started breeding horses here during the 13th century, and now they are a recognized breed protected as cultural property, and each pedigree is recorded. Even the famous Olle trail symbol is shaped like a pony, although I believe that is more in reference to the slow leisurely walk of the pony.
As we complete the circular path around Songaksan and head toward the nearby shops for cool drinks and popsicles, I notice again the marker for a Dark Tourism site. The sign describes this as a place connected with death, disaster, or great sadness. And even if it is true that people visit this place to learn about history and remember the past, I doubt that was the aim of most tourists I see around me.
Here we enjoy watching the dolphins and crashing waves along the dramatic coast; we walk along the cliffs and beaches then enjoy the seafood; some swim and others walk the Olle trails. Is it wrong to ignore the darker side of tourism? Probably, but I like to learn what I can while enjoying the natural beauty of the place. Fortunately Jeju allows me to do it all.
However, I suggest a going when the weather is cooler...
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