We exited the train station from the airport as we headed towards our hotel for our first night in Osaka. The night was immediately lit up with a multitude of lanterns and neon signs. We were in Namba, Osaka's central district on Halloween night. The crowds making their way home mingled with the tourists heading out on the town in outlandish costumes. The narrow streets were lined with small restaurants, and people spilled out of the bars. There was no hope of finding a free table as most were eating at the counter/bar or standing. People lined up for... I'm not sure what. Every place was advertising with bright flashing signs, menu boards and huge 3D images of what they were offering. It was truly a sensory overload.
As we waited with hundreds of others at a crosswalk, Jon suggested we take the stairs to what looked like a pedestrian tunnel. However, I could now see our hotel and didn't want to lose my bearings. We carried on overground. I later realized that these stairs led to the city's subway system which we would probably have to tackle the next day.
Before heading out by subway to visit Osaka castle we wanted to get a coffee. Google Maps showed a Starbucks on the same block as our hotel but it wasn't clearly visible. We walked all around the block and didn't find a Starbucks. Could it be inside a hotel? Inside another store? We finally figured out that it must be underground, probably at the nearest subway station. So we ventured underground to discover a whole other dimension: Osaka underground. I do not mean the subway, like London's Underground, but a whole complex of tunnels and commercial spaces. We had entered Namba Walk.
Namba Walk contains numerous cafes, restaurants and various stores. You can get a massage, shop for a new outfit or drink at a bar. There is even an underground mall. There are 'streets' with plazas, markets and gathering places, all underground. Jon and I were excited to find a wonderful bakery selling every imaginable delicacy, then sample a local brewery's IPA, and shop for some imported treats. All this connected with the subway stations so it became a great place to start our day. Pick up some snacks, then head out by train.
The only problem was getting lost down there. The area sprawls and is always crowded. The exits are not very clearly marked. Some signs are obscured by the electronic bill boards flashing ads constantly. Like an airport there are different 'concourses': A, B & C. Each of these has numbered exits. We knew that to get to our hotel we had to use exit B30, but it wasn't obvious which direction we needed to go to find B30. Several times we exited and went above ground just to find our bearings. Another example of just how hard the tunnels are to navigate: we knew that the great bakery was at exit 1, but even so we were not easily able to find it again.
Namba Walk has much to offer, but if you find that mouthwatering place offering delicious crepes, pin its location on Google Maps. And even then the odds are against you finding it again.
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